England & Scotland

April 21, 2009 - Tuesday

Bob and I having parked ourselves happily at the Hilton above Paddington Train station. It was very comforting to be hanging around familiar ‘digs’ and to know our way around without a map. We were too filled with Queen Mary foods to dine out last night so I went down to Sainsbury’s and found us take-out sandwiches and beer which we consumed happily before crashing. The station has been much improved from when I last worked here with many more sit-down restaurants and two take out places: Sainsbury and Marks and Spencer. Signage is new, security seems higher, but the rush of people racing to trains seems only too familiar. The British Rail system has this year’s publicity called: Journey of Discovery – my, what a catchy title. I tried to get one of their posters to carry home, but there were none available. I’ll try again in June.

Today’s goal was to check out the flat which William and I will be using when we return in late June. The Presidential Apartments are perfectly located in Marlybone on George Street, between Glouchester and Baker Street. Bob and I viewed the apartment, chatted with the manager who told us how we will get into the flat late on the evening of our arrival and how the whole place worked. We were delighted that there is a presence there everyday and not just an empty flat. There are whole floors in this complex just set aside for short term rentals, and all managed by this one man named Mohssen. We then checked out the grocery stores nearby, the tube stop (Oxford Circus) and other important items which we’ll need for our stay. It being a gorgeous sunny day we proceeded to meander through Mayfair, walked along Duke Street, stopping in shops, walking through parks, past the US Embassy and on to good old Shepherd’s Market where we went to our favorite little bistro for lunch. Bob had an all American Mac and Cheese (British style) and I had salad and pate. We then wandered down Picadilly to Waterstone’s books where we browsed and finally back to our hotel for a brief rest before dinner.

With a wee bit of skepticism we took the recommendation of the concierge at the hotel who suggested that Christini’s – a small Italian restaurant would serve us well. We walked over and were completely charmed by the intimacy and fine service, not to mention the fabulous food and good wines. Bob had his usual clams with linguini and I had my usual linguini with brown butter. (Somehow I’m going to have to learn the Italian phrase for brown butter….when I describe it no one seems to ‘get it’.)

London looks fabulous in the spring with the faint green hues on the trees, and flower boxes cheerfully showing off their spring flowers. The fashion seems to be extremely high heels for the ladies with very short skirts, and the men, as usual look traditionally clad in suits and ties. It may be my imagination, but it seems obesity is on the rise and you notice it on the tube, especially.

Our hotel room is part of the old railroad hotels that loomed over all large stations in the 1900’s. This one has been converted into a Hilton and while the lobby looks modern with people having meetings all over the area the rooms are a little sad and the corridors are amazingly long and windy. But all that we need is here, and for our early departure to Hereford this strikes us as perfect.

April 22 – Wednesday

We were in need of a ‘boat fix’ – I mean it had been two days since we were on one, so we took ourselves down to the Embankment tube stop where we walked down to the Westminster piers where all manner of boats were prepared to take the tourist in one direction or another. Whenever we walk in London you can’t but notice the history that coats every block – be it the buildings, the monuments or simply the sense of age that permeates the air. While London may be hip and happening that layer sits atop some very ancient history and along the river you’re very aware – be it the old docks, the many submerged gates, the old ships lying old an disreputable.

The boat we were taking would slowly meander the curves and twists of the Thames working its way to Greenwich and the Thames Barrier – a flood gate system built in the 90’s . I have taken this boat ride many times, the first time in 1967 when I was on my inaugural trip away from the States. At that time the speaker on the boat would point out the sites of the Tower of London, the Parliament, various pubs which went back to the 1800’s and lots of references to Charles Dickens who portrayed th4e dqualor along the river front. But now that London is upscale, and buildings are being renovated, we were made aware of the high-rise financial center at the Canary Wharf and Dockside, the new Tate Modern, the London Eye, the ‘wobbly bridge” and the Millennium Dome – all new, all modern, all making London the trendy place it is. And the water, which was once so putrid that nothing could live in it, is now so clear that one can fish in its waters and you won’t die eating the catch. Gentrification has taken over and some of the lovely old homes have been restored for the likes the director David Lean and others with more than disposable income.

Since we both have been to Greenwich numerous times and the sun was warming and delightful, we decided to stay on, and return to the starting point. The Thames Barrier is a lovely modern site whose mechanisms we didn’t quite understand. We figured that Google would tell us all we need to know since the young man on the ship didn’t give a very thorough explanation. They are almost art deco with their silver winged sections….but why and how it works requires future research. We were right at the front of the boast, upstairs and the sun was beating down on us. Some of the landmarks of Greenwich were missing or under wraps: the Cutty Sark and the Gypsy Moth sailed by Chichester. Both had caught on fire a few years back and are in the midst of restoration. Otherwise, from the water, Greenwich seemed unchanged – the military area, the site of Greenwich Mean Time at the Astronomy area and the usual queues of tourists using the destination as an excuse for a boat ride.

We returned to the Embankment tube stop only to learn that there were various strikes along the line and we would have to find alternative paths – which we did. We got back to the hotel, collected laundry and hopped back in the tube to go to Nottinghill Gate for dinner at Geales. Kathlyn had taken us here last year and Bob was delighted with the fish-focused menu so we arrived and since we were very early we could chose any table. Bob consumed a dozen oysters and from there we had lemon sole and for desert some yummy thing I can’t remember.

There is such comfort in knowing ones way around, knowing the neighborhoods, the sites and not feeling that one has to be in tourist mode from start to end of day. We both agreed that we ought to find a way to rent an apartment in London for a winter to just settle in, enjoy the museums, theater, dining and bookstores….maybe soon.

We returned to the hotel to pack our bags for an early departure tomorrow morning for Hereford and the next leg of our very brief British journey.

April 23 – Thursday:

Another early morning with the usual anxiety of about locating the correct train, correct car and seat not to mention stashing the luggage. We’re off to Hereford on a Virgin train which leaves right from Paddington. The ride was wonderful as we left London and found ourselves passing fields with young lambs gamboling next to their mothers, totally unaware that they were the next leg of lamb at the dinner table. They are incredibly adorable and reminded me of the trip through New Zealand where we learned that most lambs come in pairs. The fields are all filled with wild flowers and we gazed happily out the windows.

Our arrival in Hereford was on time and there was Ray to greet us. We bundled ourselves into their lovely green Jaguar and headed to their home, picking up Elaine along the way. They were entirely too apologetic for the chaos of their house as it goes through a bit of renovation. It’s a lovely home built in the early 20th century and has lots of its charm – the rounded door openers, the official parlor, sitting room, dining room, small but efficient kitchen and upstairs two bedrooms with bath. Things were tucked into all manner of corners as they try to cope with total upheaval.

We nattered on together catching up on our separate lives and had a quick bite before heading out to see the sights of Hereford. First to the cathedral which has two fabulous sites: the Mappa Mundi – a very early 13th century illustration of the world. It was interesting to understand how the world was perceived. The illustrator had never traveled, but had word of its wonders and had portrayed them a accurately as they could. Thus one found Greece sort of near Turkey but the location of the Acropolis was a bit off and there were plenty of monsters and creatures which were thought to actually exist. The exhibit was very well laid out and well documented. Also at the cathedral was one of the last of the remaining chained libraries. In the early centuries while books were still a rarity, these libraries served as reference libraries where books were available to read. To ensure their safety they were chained to the shelves and shelved with their spine to the back. This particular collection had some wonderful rarities which are still used by scholars to this day. A very chatty docent gave us all the information to us. She was known to Ray and Elaine and thus we felt we were getting a very personal guide.

The delightful thing is that Ray, having been THE photographer for the Hereford Times for over 40 years is known to everyone in the town because he has been at every major and minor event that has occurred in the town and photographed all its luminaries. To move through town with him is to be escorted by someone truly in the know. While he is now retired, everyone knows him and he and Elaine know everyone. As we walked out of the cathedral we passed a house tucked behind some serious metal gates. Just as Ray started to describe the wonderful house, its owners were opening the gates and invited us in to see the gardens and to admire the house. It was lovely and the owners took great pride in their gardens.

For dinner they had planned a lovely meal at a gastro pub – the newest British phenomenon. Instead of the usual bangers and mash, some of the pubs have gone quite upscale and are offering lovely meals. The Wellington Arms was one to gain quite a reputation, so we drove to it. Unfortunately we were all under-whelmed by our meal and Ray and Elaine suggested that this was their first and last visit. But we chattered on with no stop in the conversation and while the meal was bland it wasn’t a disaster.

Thoroughly exhausted and full we returned to the house and fell into bed.

April 24 – Friday

Bob and I had stated that we wanted to have a day in Hay on Wye so we all got up early and while Elaine went to work, Ray drove Bob and myself to Hay so we could snoop in bookshops. It was less than a lovely day so it was perfect for ducking in and out of stores. As usual we found a good handful of books and made two bags of acquisitions. We all then met up at the Swan Hotel for a spot of tea before getting a tour of small towns in the vicinity. First was Weobley a ‘black and white’ town where homes from the early 1400’s still exist. It felt that the town just needed Shakespeare to walk out of one of the pubs. Next on to Pembridge another Black and White town, and finally on to Eardisland. In each town Ray and Elaine pointed out the important sites and we understood that Ray had taken many photographs in each of the towns. It is so delightful to be in the hands of two people who love their surroundings and know them well. We saw things we would otherwise never have known even existed. The Lloyds are such gracious hosts making everything appear effortless as they accommodate our every request. They have truly laid out the red carpet for us and we couldn’t thank them enough.

For dinner we ate at one of their favorite local spots – a small Italian restaurant – Ponte Vecchio where Ray brought to the owner some photographs he had taken of the real Ponte Vecchio – a lovely gesture which the owner obviously appreciated. We had a meal better than the night before with less pretense but better food.

And so to bed knowing that it would be another early morning.

April 25 – Saturday

After breakfast we packed up all the books and the dozen boxes of Whittard’s Afternoon Tea which Elaine had purchased for us and sent them home via the post (located in a grocery store). We also checked our email to learn that Magic was not doing well and was at the Vet. This put quite a damper on our adventure as we both sensed that he wouldn’t wait for our return. Damn it – but when we travel it seems our beasts chose that time to leave. We knew this was an eventuality and were glad that Jock was there to take care of our beast. We were sad, but the day ahead was going to be a busy one so we put aside our saddest premonitions and ‘carried on’ with stiff upper lip. Piling ourselves and all our luggage into the Jag, we were off for a visit to Janice Knill, Elaine’s sister who lives in Cuddington in Cheshire. We had met Janice on the ship along with Ray and Elaine and she wanted to host us as well, so off we went to see more new sites. Rather than take the highway, we meandered happily on secondary roads visiting towns along the way. One such town was Ludlow where we had to stop to acquire some memorabilia of the town. To think we were at the original Ludlow – a lovely town with great hiking and a wonderfully old main street.

We stopped at what appeared to be a simple road side area, but instead of your basic McDonalds or junk there was a store which sold foodstuffs made locally in Ludlow – everything from jams and jellies to meats and vegetables. Like in the states, eating local has become quite THE thing to do and the store was quite busy. While it would have been fun to pick up things, it would have been quite a bit of weight to haul to Scotland and home. So we admired but didn’t buy.

We met Jan at the carpark in Cheshire. It was a busy Saturday and we took the bus from the car park to the main part of Cheshire where we ate at the _______________________ hotel. A wonderful old hotel located in the center of the town near the clock tower. We enjoyed a quick lunch and beer before going out to tour this very touristy town. We walked the town walls which once enclosed the town. It was a perfect sunny warm spring day and the walking felt great. We then explored some of the stores before returning to the car park and on to Jan’s home.

Janice was widowed a few years ago and continues to be in that unhappy middle-world between the death of her beloved Jeff and moving forward into her own solitary world. The house, a fairly modern one in a community of like-made homes still carries Jeff’s shadow. Her children are scattered, with her one son living in New Zealand where the adorable grandchildren live and her other living in London. Jan seems torn as to where and what to go next: New Zealand, Hereford or staying in the town where she now lives. She is very close to Ray and Elaine who include her in all their activities and trips and you sensed that they are truly trying to help her move ahead. Never having had a real career she doesn’t have much to fall back on and finds being alone a very lonely existence.

She admitted to being quite nervous about making us a home cooked meal, but she created a lovely coq au vin and we all sat around first with some pre-prandialh and then eating, chatting and sharing life’s stories around her dining table. We feel so lucky to be part of this lovely trio. We all agree that we have to find some way to travel together again sometime in the future. Since we all like cruising, I’m sure it will happen.

April 26 – Sunday/b>

Another early morning as the five of us piled into the Jag for a trip to Portmeirion in Wales – no one would tell us what to expect as if it were a secret. We took many wonderful back roads, avoiding road construction and singing our way through the countryside to tunes of the Beatles and others of the 60’s.

After a bit more than two hours we arrived at Portmeirion which Bob correctly compared to the Hearst Castle. It is the fantasy of one man who chose to buy a large piece of property and on it he built a Mediterranean ‘complex’ of buildings. Each one serves as a place to stay and tying the whole together is the main hotel dining area where we went for lunch. It is located on a lake front and at the base of the complex. We meandered down to the restaurant past lovely and grotesque sculptures, buildings and such. Portmeirion pottery is quite famous and this along with other memorabilia was available from a series of stores along the way.

It being a lovely warm day, we sat outside waiting for our table and examining the menu. The meal was quite good – fixed price – and we chattered away through it all.

April 27 – Monday

* Everyone up early for departures – Elaine and Ray to Herefordshire, we to Scotland
* Train from Crewe to Waverly Station
* Arrival at Elomview and the Glencairn Self-catering flat with everything. Robyn and Niki run it.
* Well appointed with starter-kit for breakfast, all gadgets, washer;dryer; lovely little enclosed garden outside – like a little home away from hom0065
* Dinner at Henricks and to bed
* Large green across the road
* Working class main street with every known bus route, meat market, vegetale stand, grocery store and all conveniences.
* Gray day

April 28 – Tuesday

* Bus taken to Waverly where we check out train for Friday
* Lazy start to the day having had entireloy too many 7:00 a.m wake up calls. Didn’t leave house until noon.
* Buy Royal Ticket good for: Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood Castle, Brittania in Lieth, and hop on and hop off buses for two days included.
* Walked along Prince Street getting our bearings and having lunch at Marks and Spencers. It is an amazing place – from the fuddy duddy days when mother bought her nylons there to the full catering meal area with fine fine foods.
* Hopped on one of the busses for a personal tour of the city. The guide was truly Scottish and had memorized his poetry and gave a most amusing and informative tour of the city filled with anecdotes and history. Afterwards we decided his was the best of all tours. The other busses had canned talks without charm or information.
* Went to Holyrood Castle – home of Mary Queen of Scots
* Bus back to starting point, picked up dinner at Marks and Spencer
* On the #23 bus back to our neighborhood – picked up wine and salad

April 29 – Wednesday

* Took #11 bus to Ocean Terminal in Lieth – thru every neighborhood
* Tour of Brittania
* Lunch at the Ocean Terminalk – huge mall (salmon cake/spinach cheese pie
* Took tour bus back to town with crowd of Italians
* Stopped at store for hamburger dinner and wine
* Pleasure of self0-catering, don’t have to eat out all the time.
* Watch the Full Monty on t.v.

April 30 – Thursday

* Last day for touring. Hopped on local bus.
* Hike up to castle
* Rainy-spitty windy day with audio headset

Walked down Golden Mile popping into stores April 27 – Monday

* Everyone up early for departures – Elaine and Ray to Herefordshire, we to Scotland
* Train from Crewe to Waverly Station
* Arrival at Elomview and the Glencairn Self-catering flat with everything. Robyn and Niki run it.
* Well appointed with starter-kit for breakfast, all gadgets, washer;dryer; lovely little enclosed garden outside – like a little home away from hom0065
* Dinner at Henricks and to bed
* Large green across the road
* Working class main street with every known bus route, meat market, vegetale stand, grocery store and all conveniences. * Gray day

April 28 – Tuesday

* Bus taken to Waverly where we check out train for Friday
* Lazy start to the day having had entireloy too many 7:00 a.m wake up calls. Didn’t leave house until noon.
* Buy Royal Ticket good for: Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood Castle, Brittania in Lieth, and hop on and hop off buses for two days included.
* Walked along Prince Street getting our bearings and having lunch at Marks and Spencers. It is an amazing place – from the fuddy duddy days when mother bought her nylons there to the full catering meal area with fine fine foods.
* Hopped on one of the busses for a personal tour of the city. The guide was truly Scottish and had memorized his poetry and gave a most amusing and informative tour of the city filled with anecdotes and history. Afterwards we decided his was the best of all tours. The other busses had canned talks without charm or information.
* Went to Holyrood Castle – home of Mary Queen of Scots
* Bus back to starting point, picked up dinner at Marks and Spencer
* On the #23 bus back to our neighborhood – picked up wine and salad

April 29 – Wednesday

* Took #11 bus to Ocean Terminal in Lieth – thru every neighborhood
* Tour of Brittania
* Lunch at the Ocean Terminalk – huge mall (salmon cake/spinach cheese pie
* Took tour bus back to town with crowd of Italians
* Stopped at store for hamburger dinner and wine
* Pleasure of self0-catering, don’t have to eat out all the time.
* Watch the Full Monty on t.v.

April 30 – Thursday

* Last day for touring. Hopped on local bus.
* Hike up to castle
* Rainy-spitty windy day with audio headset
*
* Checked out tours of Loch Ness for later with William
* Guinness and lager at Tass.
* Bus back to eat Grill Cheese, salad, wine and fruit
* Pack and to bed

May 1 – Friday

* Early departure for train to Southanmpton
* Chatty cab driver going off to Florida in July
May 2 - 8

Back on the Queen Mary to New York