Mid-trip

April 19, 2008 How nice it is to awake to one’s birthday at sea. Not to mention the beginning of Passover. We are just about mid-point in our sea adventure and thus farthest from any land mass. There are quite a few tall mountains below the sea which the captain told us about at his noon update, but nothing much visible. The first hint that this was my ‘special day’ was that as we turned on the television to learn of weather, sea conditions and our menu for the evening (always a delight to be able to fantasize early about the fabulous feast that is in store for us at the end of a day). There it was: a message from Cunard wishing me a happy birthday…I had to take a picture of the screen, and it was a good thing that I did because after a few hours it had disappeared, and no one would have believed me. Ah, the power of computer data bases…they forget nothing. (We learned that they actually read out all the names of those having birthdays on the morning TV …the day won’t go by unnoticed. Having moved the clocks ahead another hour, we were very leisurely in our start to the day – overcast, cool, calm seas and our pot of coffee delivered to welcome the day. To celebrate I signed up for both an acupuncture treatment as well as a manicure at the Canyon Ranch Spa. On board these are not exactly inexpensive events, but our attitude was ‘why not?” Having always had lunch at the various buffets we decided to try the main Britannia Restaurant for lunch – it was my birthday, afterall, and white table clothes seemed to be the appropriate prospect. We ate on the downstairs level and concluded we like the upper levels much better – less noise, and certainly less awareness that you’re dining with thousands of your best friends. The lunch was good, the chardonnay was crisp and it was worth the experiment – once. Bob had a Salad Nicoise with large chunks of seared Ahi tuna. In the afternoon there was the promise of a string quartet which turned out to be downright teeth-itchingly horrible. Having given the musicians a chance to prove that maybe they had just had a bad start we stayed for four ‘tunes’ before we knew things weren’t going to get much better. Quite a contrast from the classical pianist who had been ‘spot on’. The weather remains overcast and foggy so we read the Herald Tribune, took naps, did some email and visited the purser’s office where we learned about our fellow sailing companions: A total of 2484 passengers with 764 Americans, 1177 British, 191 Germans and 352 other. Everyone has a story to tell and a reason for being on board and it is the topic with which one begins almost every introductory conversation: What brings you to this ship? Where are you going next? How did you spend your day? Have you sailed often? Of course one only gets the surface stories – it would take a lot longer to get down to the real story behind each person and we won’t be on board long enough to learn these. Tonight was a semi-formal evening (no tuxedo required, less glitter being worn), but everyone still looking mighty spiffy. The photographers who line the main hallway leading to the dining room were busy bees setting everyone up for poses – adoring couple holding hands, elegant ladies looking proud, a Scotsman in his kilt looking regal – the photographers know how to make every person feel special. And of course they are hoping that when you see your picture the next day in the photo gallery, you will decide that you just HAVE to have a copy. Of course, all these posed pictures will land up somewhere in a box, but at the time, ones ego gets ahead of rational thinking. So far we’ve avoided the urge to pose or to purchase, but we will take some posed pictures on the return trip since some of my fancy duds are loaned to me by friends and they might like to see their clothes being worn on the QM 2. I must admit, that while I was not initially pleased with this need to always look elegant, that it is lovely even during the daytime to see people dressed with care. Almost no jeans and few sweats. Mostly simple but ‘tasteful outfits and in some cases women in heels and men in suits. I keep thinking of how much time I spent on planning my wardrobe. The same thoughts were in the minds of everyone else and now we’re all sharing our fashion statements. Obviously at dinner our tablemates had decided that the birthday had to be acknowledged, but it was most muted – a simple card signed by everyone and at dessert time the requisite birthday cake slice with a candle and a large white-chocolate plaque with HAPPY BIRTHDAY written in dark chocolate. Having been on the galley tour recently, I’m sure these little plaques are made in abundance and frozen for the right occasion. The best gift (other than cards and emails from many) was that Bayla, one of our table mates had gone earlier that evening to a Seder provided by the ship and she brought me a huge pile of matzo…it was just lovely. Having imbibed in both a strong martini, and ½ bottle of wine I chose to do my fast-fade and off to bed we went.

April 20, 2008 A truly do-nothing day. My first acupuncture session was interesting. I’m not sure it did anything, or even if it will have a long-term affect, but it was interesting to have needles put 1” into your skin without even feeling them. I learned a lot about the process in my usual way of wanting to understand how it works and I have to believe that a concept that has existed this long can’t be total hogwash. While I got stuck with 15+ pins all over my back and legs, Bob was enjoying the library where he overheard from a neighboring conversation that not only did we cross over the site of the Titanic, but in addition we took a detour 40 miles south of our planned route since there were still ice fields breaking up in the area and the ship didn’t need this kind of bad publicity. This we confirmed from a presentation called a Virtual Bridge Tour. Thanks to 9/11 all real tours of the bridge have been cancelled, but a very articulate officer provided a very detailed and interesting presentation on how the ship works. We watched this on our TV, having missed the actual live presentation. We also learned that in the fancy two-level penthouse suite there is a couple – a man and a woman, one English the other American, with three bodyguards outside the door at all times. This knowledge was imparted by a woman who with her family is occupying four smaller suites as they head to a family reunion in England. Word has it that the son of Rosemary Clooney is on board and that he and his wife – Debbie Boone – attended church services…this is the kind of important data that buzzes about when one has not much else to think about. (This and the fact that our only tv station for news is FOX which is fairly partial in its delivery). Our last formal evening was delightful. Our table of nine has gelled into a coherent group with a great deal of humor and chit chat. We all exchanged cards and email addresses so that we now know everyone’s last name and we’ll be able to correspond. (The couple whom I would be interested in seeing again are George and Veronica who are British and spend the winters in Sarasota, Florida. The waiters and wine stewards were particularly solicitous knowing that tomorrow is the day for them to receive extra tips, if we chose to give them. There is a common amount ($11.00/day/person) which is taken out automatically from your account and is divided up amongst stewards, busboys etc., and it’s a question as to whether one wants to leave extra for especially fine service. On our last cruise we gave to both our waiter and assistant waiter who were very attentive, remembered what we drank, what kind of rolls we wanted, that we did or didn’t like fresh pepper…this duet at our table will not receive anything extra… even if they did give us copies of our menus from the last days signed with great flourish. Our room steward has left in our room luggage tags, questionnaires, departure instructions etc., all of which reminds us that tomorrow is our last full day on board. It’s been a wonderfully calm way to begin a holiday and puts us ‘in the mood’ On the TV they’ve been showing documentaries about the grand age of transatlantic crossings - the 1920’s to 1940’s. I keep remembering that that was the time that daddy and uncle Walter were making their world tour and while sea travel at that time was elegant, and classy, one is reminded by these old films that at that time most people did not have their own bathrooms, swimming pools were rare or non-existent for the most part, and stabilizers which make us float across oceans with hardly any movement were totally unavailable then which meant that the ship in rough seas was a far less comfortable experience. Otherwise I’m sure the experience was very similar – bridge games, elegant balls, fine food, people on deck chairs staring at the ocean and time to relax and meet new people. Another piece of important trivia we learned is that this ship, the QM 2 is the last true ocean-going vessel designed to cross the North Atlantic. Most ships being built now are cruise ships meant for shorter journeys and unable to go as fast as this liner.